Let’s be honest, what is your basic instinctive reaction when you see a watch that looks suspiciously like a Rolex but costs a fraction of the price? Your first thought is probably, “Is this a tribute… or a knockoff?”
The reason for this immediate deduction is simple. Rolex is not just a watch brand. It is a cultural icon. A phenomenon that depicts its true value without any price tag. Its designs are instantly recognizable. The Submariner’s rugged elegance, the Daytona’s racing heritage, and the Datejust’s timeless sophistication. These have become shorthand for luxury itself. So, it is no surprise that other brands take inspiration. But when does “inspired by” cross into “ripped off”?
The Case for Homage Watches
Homage watches are not a new thing. In fact, they are a bit of a tradition in horology. Think of them as cover songs. They have the same melody and the same vibe, but are sung by different artists. But the question arises: what makes a good homage?
- It takes clear inspiration, like the Mercedes hour hand or cyclops date magnifier, but does not copy every detail.
- It adds its own twist, maybe a different movement, case material, or dial color.
- It does not pretend to be something it is not. The brand is upfront about the inspiration.
Examples we love:
- Tudor Black Bay: A sub-brand owned by Rolex, but with its own personality, with snowflake hands and matte dials.
- Seiko SKX: This brand gives off an unmistakable submariner vibe, but it is undeniably Seiko in build and spirit. This distinction makes it not only recognizable but popular with the masses.
- Steinhart Ocean One: Swiss-made, Submariner-esque, but with unique colorways.
These watches don’t hide their roots. They celebrate them. Standing on their own, these brands pay homage to the industry giant and forerunner, Rolex.
When Homage Becomes Imitation
But then there are the other types of watches. The ones that make you squint and ask, “Wait… is that a Rolex?” until you spot a different logo. These are not homages, they are imitations. Some might call them the “Red Flags”. And what makes them mere reflections of the original and standing significantly below the homage watches?
- 1:1 copying: These have the same case shape, bezel, and dial text layout. If you covered the logo, you would swear it was the real thing.
- Deceptive branding: These watches use the exact same logos, with similar fonts, with minimal differences or marketing that hints at “Swiss luxury” without saying it outright.
- Zero innovation: Simply put, they are just a cheap(er) replica with a different name.
The offenders?
What makes imitations more controversial, especially in the watch enthusiasts community, is their potential to confuse the less-informed buyers. The unwitting buyer believes that they are purchasing a design unique to the selling brand. Not to mention, this may lead to tarnishing the brand name. They may also dilute the perceived originality of watchmaking as an art form. Rolex spends decades and vast sums refining its designs; duplicating them without innovation risks reducing watch design to a game of replication rather than creativity.
Does This Matter?
Yes, a lot. On one hand, homages make iconic designs accessible. Not everyone can or wants to drop $10K on a Submariner. On the other hand, Rolex slavish imitations feel lazy and sometimes even dishonest. So, in my humble opinion, I separate products I am willing to put my money on based on a simple concept, which is brand transparency.
The real issue? Transparency
- If a brand says, “This is our take on a classic dive watch,” cool.
- If they are banking on buyers mistaking it for a Rolex? Not cool.
So Where’s the Line?
Here’s my litmus test, which does not compromise on the overall quality of the watch.
- Cover the logo. Does the watch still have its own identity?
It does, so yes, I can respect the product.
- Check the price. Is it priced fairly for what it is, or is it riding Rolex’s coattails?
It is, then, a big red flag.
- Look for innovation. Did the brand add anything new, or just copy-paste?
A CTRL+X. Then I will save my money for something more original.
Final Thought: Respect the Craft
Rolex did not become iconic by accident. It took decades of refinement. Homages that build on that legacy, like Tudor or Seiko, are part of the conversation. Imitations that just steal it? In my opinion, they are not worth the emotional and financial investments of buyers.
So, what’s your take? Is a $200 Submariner “homage” a smart buy or a rip-off? Should brands be more original, or is imitation truly a form of flattery in these Rolex-inspired designs?